Aama Yangri Peak Trek- An Ultimate Escape

Aama Yangri is located in the Helambu area of Sidhupalchowk District, just 90 kilometers north of Kathmandu Valley. The peak’s name means mother in Nepali, and she is said to be the Hyolmo region’s dakini or guardian. The height of the summit is 3771 meters. It has recently gained a lot of attention due to the discovery of its floral route and breathtaking mountain vistas. Rhododendron, pine, and oak trees line the route. Hyolmo culture is also prevalent in the area. Sherpa, Chhetri, Tamang, and other ethnic groups live happily together. The summit is one of Langtang National Park’s jewels.

General Information

  • Altitude: 3,771 m
  • District: Sindhupalchowk
  • Duration: 2 days trip (from the Kathmandu Valley)
  • Trekking hours: 4-5 hours for one way from Tarkeghyang
  • Vehicle hours: 4 hours for one way from Kathmandu to Tarkeghyang
  • Vehicle supported: Bike, mountain bike, jeep, bus
  • Public vehicle available: jeep, local bus, bike (up to Tarkeghyang)
  • Difficulty level: 2/5
  • Specialty: panoramic views of Mount Everest, Langtang Ranges, Dorje Lakpa, Gauri Shankar, etc.
  • Permit: Foreigners, with the exception of SAARC nations, must get a Langtang National Park permit and pay an admission charge of NPR 3000, whilst SAARC countries must only pay NPR 1500. Nepalese citizens are charged NPR 100 to enter.
  • About Bus:  Only one bus leaves to Tarkeghyang in two days. The starting point of the bus is Narayntar Shiva Chowk near Baudha. During monsoon, the bus reaches up to Timbu only. So, on monsoon, the trek begins from Timbu.
  • Trek Route: The bus route is from Narayantar to Tarkeghyang through Melamchi and Timbu. The trek route is from Tarkeghyang to Aama Yangri Peak.
  • Hotel Information in Tarkeghyang: Hotel Yangri Peak, 9848944003

Things To Carry:

  • Raincoat
  • Trekking poles
  • Extra pair of clothes and socks
  • Flip-flops
  • Snacks
  • Medicines

Things To Wear:

  • Trekking shoes
  • Light and loose clothes (jeans not recommended)
  • Sun hat
  • Sunscreen

Itinerary

Day 1: Take a bus from Narayantar and reach Tarkeghyang on the first day.

Day 2: Trek to Aama Yangri Peak and back to Tarkeghyang and to Kathmandu or extend the trip to day 3.

Specialty of the Trek!

  1. You can finish this trek over a weekend! All you need is two days from Kathmandu and the trek is over.
  2. This is the easiest trek I ever had.
  3. It is a safe trek for solo travelers too as you can return back to the village within half day.
  4. You get nice hospitality in Tarkeghyang. The place has been badly affected by 2015 Earthquake but it is getting better.
  5. It is a virgin trail.
  6. There is no chance you get to buy a coke or snicker after you begin trekking from Tarkeghyang. So, carry whatever you might crave during the trek. Well, carry your wrappers back with you!
  7. Local Tongba, Tibetan breakfast, Nepali tato khana, amazing Mountain View, nice weather, and amazing breeze!

My Trekking Experience

So, on March 12, 2022, I chose to travel Aama Yangri. It was a last-minute idea when the trekking expedition to Tilicho was postponed owing to severe snowfall blocking the path. So, I started my journey with very little research. I couldn’t find a bus that would take me directly to Tarkeghyang since it was an alternative day for the bus. As a result, I took the bus up to Timbu. It was a nice walk from Timbu to Tarkeghyang.

I left Kathmandu at 8:00 a.m., and between 1:00 p.m. and 2:00 p.m., I had arrived at Tarkeghyang, the last stop of the day. Melamchi’s path provided a terrifying perspective. The remnants of structures that were devastated by a recent flood were found along the Melamchi riverbank. Aside from that, the path offered spectacular views of the mountains and greenery. It was mostly off-road.

Tarkeghyang was stunning. I stayed at Hotel Yangri Peak, which provided excellent service. The nicest aspect about this walk is that you arrive at the accommodation well before dark, allowing you to see the area on the same day. Near where I stayed, there was a gumba. The colorful ribbons linked to the gumba let in a beautiful wind from beyond the mountains.

I ate a delicious meal and drank some powerful tongba. The hot shower was the finest feature of the accommodation! With a room fee of NPR 1000, the facility was rather inexpensive. Before supper, I had the finest Rara noodles soup with Rayo ko Saag.

The next day, I awoke at 5:00 a.m., ate a delicious breakfast (honey and peanut butter pancakes with tea), and began hiking at 6:00 a.m. There are two options available. You may ride your bike up to Jhumothang and then start walking from there. Trekkers coming from Tarkeghyang might use a different track that has a lot of steps. STAIRS, STAIRS, STAIRS!

Pangshyole is the next destination after Jhumothang. It will take you two hours to get there. It features a little resting area with a spectacular view. The trail was not difficult for me. However, it might be challenging for first-time hikers.

Within one to two hours of leaving Pangshyole, I arrived at Aama Yangri Peak. The path was covered in snow. It was also really chilly. A gumba can be found at the end of the trip (which was under construction). The view from the location was magnificent. I had brought some leftover pancakes and other munchies, which I ate and carried the wrappers back to Tarkeghyang. I arrived in Kathmandu on the same day. So, it was only a two-day hike for me.

The thing I forgot to talk about is the wildflowers along the trail. The purple wildflowers were covering the hills so beautifully. And it also had rhododendron trees, but unfortunately, not most of the trees were blooming rhododendrons.

If you reside in or near the Kathmandu Valley, you should go on this tour. It has a lot to give. The pathways are empty and ready for your footsteps. Just a small request: please do not litter the trail. On the journey, there was a lot of garbage created by humans.

Furthermore, if you are staying in Tarkeghyang, speak with local residents. You might hear unexpected stories about how their lifestyles changed after the earthquake. You’ll also appreciate learning about their distinct cultures.

Aleena Rayamajhi
5/23/2022

Your Guide to Shey Phoksundo Lake from Kathmandu

Shey Phoksundo Lake

I made my 11-day trip to Shey Phoksundo Lake in October 2021. It was via roadways and the trip included 5 days of trekking. It was my second time visiting Karnali Pradesh. My last trip was to Rara Lake. And, though both the lakes lie in neighboring districts, there were a lot of differences. 

If you do not have enough days off, you can take two flights, one from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and the other from Nepalgunj to Juphal, Dolpa. It will lessen your days and make the trip less stressful. The trail is along the Bheri River at first and along the Phoksundo River later up to the lake. The lake is a dark blue-colored beauty that is so huge that it is impossible to circle it. 

Beautiful Lake Phoksundo

Information about Shey Phoksundo National Park:

  • District: Dolpa
  • Coordinates: 29º10’24″N 82º56’12″E
  • Traditional Name: Yungdrung Lhatso
  • Region: Shey Phoksundo National Park, 3,555 sq. km
  • Elevation: 3611.5 m
  • Lake: Glacially dammed, oligotrophic
  • Maximum depth: 145m
  • Covered area: 4.94 km2
  • Maximum length: 5.15 km
  • Area of National Park: 355,500 ha 
  • Cultural Myth of Lake’s Origin: Guru Rinpoche chased after a demoness in Dolpo. She asked the villagers for help to hide her traces but defrauded them. Thus, the people told Guru Rinpoche about her, whereafter she got angry and flooded the houses with the blue water.
  • Specialty: a largest national park in Nepal, highest snow leopard density, best quality cordyceps in the world, Ramsar site Phoksundo Lake, famous Shey and Shamling Gumba, cultural dress rental option (Sherpa dress)
View from the trail

Natural Values:

  • The exceptional variety of flora and fauna: blue sheep, musk deer, birds, endemic butterflies, snow leopard, and more.
  • The institution of the National Park and the WWF protect the elusive and endangered population of snow leopards by implementing various projects.
  • Birch, juniper, oak, cypress, cedar, pine, shrubs, flowers, and more.
In front of Lake Phoksundo

Itinerary:

Day 1: If you have your vehicle like a jeep or bike, starting at 6:00 pm, you can reach Surkhet by 8:00 am or 9:00 am. I recommend you make a night trip. Your first night will be in the vehicle.

In front of Lake Shey Phoksundo

Day 2: Your first destination is Chhinchu, Surkhet. You will find several buses and jeeps that will take you to your second destination, which is Radi Bajar. If you take a public bus from Chhinchu at 11:00 am as we did, you will reach Radi Bajar, West Rukum by 9:00 or 10:00 pm. We stayed at Sishne Cafe and Restaurant at Radi Bajar. The hotel is a newly opened one and you will find the best service here with a very friendly management team. 

Cannabis Plant

Day 3: Begin day 3 as early as possible. You will find a jeep that will take you to your next destination, which is Khadang. If the volume of the river is high, you will need to take two to three different jeeps to reach Khadang. We stayed at Sugam Hotel the third night at Khadang. The hotel was average, with enough beddings for 11 people (our team). The condition of was the toilet was bad. But well, the hospitality of the hotel owner was great and the food was tasty too.

Radi Bajar to Chaukha (NPR 500)
Chaukha to Tallubagar (NPR 150)
Tallubagar to Damachaur (Walking)
Damachaur to Karabgad (NPR 1000)
Karabgad to Khadang (Walking)

Surprisingly found Terai food – Samosa

Day 4: It is recommended to start early on day 4 as well. We reserved a jeep at 8:30 in the morning from Khadang and reached Tripurasundari with NPR 500 per head. Before heading from Khadang, we had samosas for breakfast at Khadang which was NPR 25/per piece. We found a woman selling apples at NPR 10/per apple. It was delicious. From there, we reserved another jeep that took us to Suligad which is the actual starting point of the trek. From here, you do not get any transportation facilities besides horses or mules. You enter the Shey Phoksundo National Park after crossing a bridge. We had our lunch at Suligad. After trekking for a few hours, we reached Syagdey which became our destination for day 4. There’s only one hotel in Sydney, so if you do not have a pre-booking, you can stay at Suligad too.

Day 5: On day 5, we started our trek after having coffee and roti for breakfast and reached Chhepka for another cup of tea. From Chhepka, after trekking for a few hours, we reached Ryachi at around 1:00 pm where we had lunch. From Ryachi, after trekking for a few hours, we made it to Syajol. In Syajol, we stayed at Trekker’s Inn. The hospitality here was great too and the food was yummy as well.

Yummy lunch at Ryachi

Day 6: On day 6, we started trekking early in the morning as usual. It was the most important day of our journey as we were about to reach Shey Phoksundo Lake after almost 3.5 hours of trek. The slope increases from this point and the trek becomes extreme after 1.5 hours. After reaching the lake, we stayed at Sherpa Hotel. The hospitality and service were great. Food was quite expensive because of the struggle to carry grains upon the place. 

Day 7: You can hike to several places in and around the lake like Shey Gumba, different viewpoints, etc. We decided to leave the place after lunch and left at noon. On the seventh day, we made it to Ryachi where we had had our lunch on day 5. We stayed at Pahuna Hotel. 

Trending photoshoot point near Gumba

Day 8: On the 8th day of the trip, we reached Tripurakot. Due to an accident of one of the jeeps before us near Suligad, we were unable to move forward from Tripurakot. We stayed at Shey Phoksundo Hotel where the room and toilet were not very good but the food was tasty and the hospitality was great. 

Day 9: On day 9, we made it to Radi Bajar at 10:00 pm. The time can vary depending upon how long you have to wait for the jeep and of course the speed of your trek. We stayed in the same hotel that we stayed on our second night. 

Tripurakot Hotel

Day 10: On day 10, we reserved a jeep to Khalanga. There we had the amazing Thakali Lunch at Thakali Hotel. From there, we left for Kohalpur in another reserved minibus. We reached Kohalpur at around 4:30 pm. Finally, we took the last bus to our hometown and reached home on the 11th day! The trip ended on the 11th day.

Lodge at Radi Bajar

Budget Plan

For my 11 days trip to Shey Phoksundo, I had estimated a budget of NPR 30,000. With the amount, my trip was successful. As we had to reserve a jeep in several places, our transportation cost was high. I have listed below the tentative prices that might be useful for the trip:

1. Veg Lunch (Daal Bhaat): – NPR 270 to NPR 400 (the price increases with the increase in altitude of the place)
2. Extra Meat (Chicken/Mutton/Fish/Yak): – NPR 200 to NPR 400 
3. Chhinchu, Surkhet to Radibajar Bus: – NPR 1500
4. Radi Bajar to Chaukha Jeep: – NPR 500
5. Chaukha to Tallubagar: – NPR 150
6. Damachaur to Karagbad Jeep: – NPR 1000
7. Khadang to Tripurasundari Jeep: – NPR 500
8. Room: – NPR 500 to NPR 1000 (for multiple people beddings available in a single room)
9. Apple: – NPR 10/pc

Things to remember/consider:

  • Do not carry unnecessary items like a tent, sleeping bag, bulky clothes, etc. if you are traveling between September and November because the weather is fine and there are enough tea shops and hotels on the trail.
  • Prepare yourself for light rain, scorching sun, cold breeze, and a lot of bridges.
  • Snacks are expensive in the height. For example, a small 250 ml bottle cost us NPR 380 at the lake. So, it is recommended to carry enough snacks and an energy bar for your trek, and do not plan to buy it there unless you are okay with paying a huge amount. 
  • Carry first-aid and medicines as you might not find any health facilities once you are on the hills and away from the headquarter.
  • Carry a power bank for your gadgets as most places in the Dolpa region have no electricity supply (while some places have solar electricity supply). Wi-Fi is only available around the lake region throughout the trail and even SIM networks are not available at most places.  
Trekking Gears that I used for my Trek

Exploration Points

Village and People:

Take a walk through the village, greet the inhabitants with a smiling “Namaste” or the Tibetan “Tashi Delek,” and get in contact with the people. Find out more about the traditional lifestyle, handicrafts, as well as local food and drinks. Find traces of the past and see the development happening, such as the new village monastery. Maybe you want to get involved by supporting the people’s culture in Tsho. 

Chorten and Caves:

Tibetan: Chorten and Sanskrit: Stupa
 The stone monuments were erected at the occasion of a person’s passing, mostly for monks and masters of meditation. Now, they are to remember the impermanence and perviousness of human life. The biggest chorten in the center of the village is called Kalsang Woebar and was erected by Trenton Namkha Gyaltsen who built it as one of a series of four in Dolpo. You can also find caves inside the rocks or ruins of old stone huts which served as retreat places. There, some men and women made impressing experiences of meditation. They lived an ascetic life focused on discovering the nature of the mind. 

Pastures and Surroundings:

The pastures, forests, and fields offer beautiful places to relax, plants to discover, and animals to observe. Please do not disturb the animal’s habitat and do not walk on the fields when crops are unharvested.

Beautiful Lake Phoksundo

If you want to know more in detail about Karnali Pradesh, specially Rara Lake, there’s another blog on my website: www.blog.aleenarayamajhi.com.np 

Aleena Rayamajhi
11/25/2021

Baiju’s Jerry Puri Shop || The Classic Taste of Biratnagar

Saturday’s Crowd at Baiju’s Shop

How many of you are from Biratnagar who has been to Baiju’s Jerry Puri Shop? If you haven’t been here yet, I recommend you to come here. Luckily, Baiju uncle’s jerry shop is near my house and I have been his regular customer from my childhood.

Baiju Shah, the owner of the shop, has been running his shop for more than 50 years. He runs the shop with his wife, son, and one assistant. The shop is next to Anil Photo Studio, near Neuro Chowk. Unfortunately, there is no board or name tag that indicates Baiju’s shop. But there’s just one jerry shop in the area, so you will not have much confusion!

Next to Anil Photo Studio

Well, it is not like any other ordinary sweet shop in Biratnagar. It has its own uniqueness. First of all, the size of jerry and puri are both tiny. The jerry or jalebi (deep-fried wheat flour batter soaked in sugar syrup) is full of sweetness and the puri (deep-fried bread made from unleavened whole-wheat flour) is a little thick but perfect for heavy breakfast. The combination of jerry-puri is incomplete without the sabji – the spicy potato curry which has consistent taste.

I like to eat Baiju’s jerry-puri as a sandwich by putting single jerry between two puris. Even the pricing here is done differently. You’ll have to pay for the number of puri and jerry you have eaten and it is not served in kilograms or grams. The price for one jerry or one puri is NPR 5 and the sabji comes for free!

If you are new to Biratnagar, and do not want to miss the major things to do here, add ‘breakfast at Baiju’s Jerry Shop’ in the list. You will find hot and tasty jerry-puri in the morning from around 6:00 and it will last for few hours. Make sure, if you are running late, you visit the shop on weekdays because on Saturdays, the shop is crowded by people from different places. If you are patient enough, and want to be the part of the crowd, you should visit the shop on Saturday! You can also eat your food elsewhere as there is the facility of takeaway too.

If you are a hygiene freak, who is super conscious of the cleaneliness, this local shop might not be an ideal place for you. But for the real foodies, who want to experience the classic taste of Biratnagar, Baiju’s shop is your must-visit-shop.

If you go on weekdays, when Baiju uncle is less busy, you can hear his stories about how he shifted his old shop that was just a hut into a new one, his Bombay stories, his experience on selling jerry-puri for more than 50 years, and how he has been attached to his business and how he has profitted in all these years. Baiju uncle is a fun-person who panicks a little when the crowd gets bigger, but at the end, he loves to serve his customers and makes sure everyone gets to eat his yumyy jerry-puri!

Aleena Rayamajhi | Sat, 28 Aug, 2021.

Karnali Province | Harsh Reality

“???? ?? ?ℎ? ?ℎ??? ??? ?????”, said her father when I approached her for a picture. This little girl had just finished having lunch and was about to wash her hand when I took her picture. Living in a small house in Manma, Kalikot, the poor girl and her family do not have enough facilities. They lack regular electricity and clean and regular water supply.

The first thing I noticed was her charming face with rosy cheeks and pearly eyes. The second thing I noticed was her hands full of flies. During my one-day stay at Manma, I did not care if the place was dirty or not. But the minute after I met this little girl, I started noticing each child in the area. Not just children, even youths and adults lacked hygiene. This was their way of life.

There was no electricity and network in another village in Kalikot after traveling for a certain distance. The villagers kept cold drinks under the sand on the bank of the Karnali River to keep it cold. I was fascinated and then imagined a day in my life without electricity, it surely got dark.

Things got worse after I made further travel to the mountain region of Karnali Province. Reaching Mugu was a huge disappointment in terms of cleanliness. I stayed in a homestay around 10 km away from Rara Lake inside Rara National Park. Being such a touristic place, I had imagined having at least some basic facilities like clean water and room. I do not want to sound rude, but people did not bother to clean themselves or wear clean clothes. Those who cooked food for us, and the owners of the homestay were dirty too. The room that I stayed in was not better either. They complained about irregular water supply but it did not seem so. I slept with all my clothes on and then covering myself with the dirty blanket with the hope that it does not touch my skin directly.

I have wonderful memories of Karnali Province which I have mentioned in other blogs. This blog shows the sad side of some districts of Karnali Province. People lack awareness about the importance of personal hygiene and sanitation. I hope things get better when I visit Karnali Province next time.

Aleena Rayamajhi
5/9/2021

Bulaki Code | Karnali Province Stories

“I was just curious about your septum jewelry…why did you get it?” This was a common question from several people in the Karnali Province.

Bulaki, a jewelry that some women in Nepal wear on their septum, is usually fishlike piece of gold or silver that reaches up to the upper lip. I got my septum piercing few months back, and before making Karnali Trip, I added a septum jewelry of gold that is a smaller form of a bulaki.

Out of several conversations with different people in Karnali Province, I have mentioned few in this blog.

SURKHET | I was randomly looking at the view when a lady, who was selling street food in a stall called me. She first asked if I would eat something. After I denied, she called me to sit near her. Then, she asked where I was from. After telling I had come from Biratnagar, she was shocked. “So, the girls in Eastern Nepal wear such jewelry in nose?” I said “Not all. In fact, only few. I did it out of interest.” The man besides me then entered the conversation and said that he was happy to see a young woman like me getting such a cultural jewelry out of interest. He was sad about how the culture of getting septum piercing and wearing fishlike jewelry is vanishing.

JUMLA | I was stuck on the road to Mugu as the excavator was blocking the road. Two young women in the construction site were smiling at me. After noticing them, I got out of the jeep and went near them. One of them asked why I had my septum pierced. She explained to me how difficult it is to wear long fishlike bulaki on the septum. She knows about the struggle because her grandmother keeps complaining about it, she said. It also troubles the woman while eating. They were glad that their generation did not have to wear one. The last one to wear it in her family was her grandmother, she explained. But she was fascinated by the one I was wearing. She said it was of perfect size. I explained them that my parents wanted me to get my nose pierced just like a typical Chhetri family would want the girl child to get one. But instead of getting it pierced on the side of the nose, I got one on the septum. They were full of laughter. Though this was not the true story, I just made one to make them laugh.

MUGU | One of the tourist guides who was there with a foreigner to guide her to Rara Lake asked me about my septum piercing. “So, did you do it as a part of the culture? It does not seem so.” I explained him about my interest on getting one rather than any cultural pressure. He replied, “women are lucky in this case, it will force your husband to give you septum jewelry of gold on your wedding, haha.”

KALIKOT | I stopped in a beautiful house in Kalikot for a cup of tea and refreshment. There I met a woman in her late 40s with a bulaki on her septum. After our eyes met, we smiled at each other. No questions, no curiosities. I complimented about her septum jewelry which was a fishlike bulaki, and in response she said “you will look more beautiful in bulaki just like mine”. In response, I told her, “I will probably be getting one soon, maybe next time, when I will come to your place.” We also took a selfie together and she shared with me boiled potatoes which she was having for lunch.

If you have a bulaki on your septum, and you meet another person with one too, you are friends already. This is what Bulaki Code means!

Aleena Rayamajhi
5/4/2021

Guide to Rara Lake | Karnali Province

I had been to Rara on April 2021. My journey to Karnali Pradesh began from 7th April. It was a part of a field trip and we were on a private Pick-up Jeep, so I do not know about local vehicles and the routes and their prices. Besides that, the major things to consider while making a trip to Rara are here in this blog.

A house in Kalikot

You might know about the gem of Karnali Pradesh – Rara Lake. It is a part of a 106 km2 Rara National Park at an altitude of 2,290 meters. People usually take two flights to reach this place: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Nepalgunj to Jumla. From Jumla, the off-road begins. There are two ways to reach Rara via Jumla, one is a newly made off road which is comparatively shorter. I will brief you how to reach Rara via road form Kathmandu.

In front of Rara Lake

Before sharing further information, keep this in mind, the lake is not as elegant as it has been mentioned all over the Internet. I do not want to give you false hope. It is just another “Begnas Lake” in the mountain region, but the journey to the lake is what matters. It is said that Rara changes colors, and though she looks calm and gentle on the surface, but is as deep as 167m! I was slightly disappointed after reaching the lake, then I realized I had made a lot of memories, met several kind hearted people, enjoyed new dishes, shared culture and laughter, and that’s what matters at the end of the day!

In front of Rara Lake

Information about Rara Lake:

  • District: Mugu
  • Region: Rara National Park, 106 km2
  • Altitude: 2290 m
  • Maximum length: 5.1 km
  • Water Volume: 10,682 m3
  • Depth: 167m
  • Specialty: 1074 species, 51 – mammals, 214 – birds, color changing lake
  • Activities at Rara Lake: Horse-riding, boating, hiking, photography
  • Prohibited things at Rara Lake: Fishing, swimming, throwing garbage
Jumla

Itinerary:

Day 1: If you have your own vehicle like jeep or bike, starting at 6:00 am, you can reach Surkhet by 8:00 pm or 9:00 pm. It is best to book a hotel beforehand as it is not a popular city by night time. It is not fun if you are not with an enjoyable company because most of the time you are inside the vehicle. We stayed at Peace Land Lodge, Birendranagar. (Contact: +977 9868094524)

Hotel at Surkhet

Day 2: If you do not want to do sightseeing of Surkhet, it is recommended to begin the second day drive as early as 6:00 am. By 4:00 pm you will reach Manma. You can have lunch on your way to Manma. We had ours at New Karnali Riverside Hotel and Lodge, Tallo Dhungeshwar, Dailekh. It has a great view of Karnali River and there’s a hanging bridge too. After crossing Dailekh, we reached Manma. It is a place at Kalikot. We stayed at Hotel Kot Durbar (Contact: 087-440034)

The room and lunch/dinner prices were reasonable like NPR 1000 and NPR 200 to 400 (depending upon veg and non veg food) respectively.

Day 3: It is recommended to start early, because on your day 3, you will reach Mugu if you speed up. We started at 8:00 am in the morning after a light breakfast and crossed Jumla and entered Rara National Park. We had lunch at Kalikot and dinner at Mugu. The thing is, you can enter inside Rara National Park till 6:00 pm only. So, hurry up and make sure there’s a booking of your hotel rooms beforehand.

Day 4: We reached Rara after 10 minutes’ drive from hotel at the parking lot of Rara and after a short hike of another 20 minutes we made it to the lake. Make sure you reach the lake around 7:00 am so that you can do boating. We missed it. You can do horse-riding. For those who want to skip hiking, horse-riding is available. I didn’t do the horse-riding because I’m against animal cruelty.

Jungle just before Rara Lake

These routes and vehicle mentioned in the itinerary is for a private jeep. Not all kinds of vehicles can make it to Rara as the road is difficult. You can find excavators on your way which can delay you by hours. The construction works are rapidly taking place and I think the condition will be worse when monsoon begins. So, make a better research, book hotels beforehand, carry enough water and food with you, and go in a group.

Things to remember/consider:

  • Rara lies in Mugu, and you need to know about the people in Mugu. They are generous and friendly, but not hygienic. Make sure you have extra bedsheet that you might want to wrap before sleeping in the homestay of Mugu. I had to face that problem.
  • You might not find stores between two villages which might be located at a distance more than 50 km on your way to Rara! So, it is better to carry enough food and water with you.
Little girl at Kalikot
  • Carry warm clothes no matter what season or month you visit Rara to protect yourself from cool breeze in the evening.
  • Carry first-aid and medicines as you might not find any health facilities once you are on the hills and away from the headquarter.
  • Carry power bank for your gadgets as some places in Karnali Pradesh has no electricity supply. Even there’s no network so you might be contactless for a while.  
Beautiful house in Jumla

If you want to know more in detail about Karnali Pradesh, there’s another blog in my website: www.blog.aleenarayamajhi.com.np

Aleena Rayamajhi
5/2/2021

Sirubari – The First Homestay Village In Southern Asia | Your Guide

I had been to Sirubari last weekend during the festival of colors – Holi on March after two years of planning! I found more than what I had expected with Sirubari. As it is the first homestay village in Southern Asia, it has well managed committee with 27 houses that serve as homestay. Its capacity is around 150 people and it receives 100+ people every day from different corners of Nepal and from outside Nepal. Though you cannot find any mountain views from this village, you can still witness some exotic weather fluctuations and outstanding cultural vibe.

If you are planning to make a refreshing trip away from busy cities, it can be a perfect destination for you. I have tried to put down some points in this blog that might be helpful for you to plan a trip to Sirubari!

Specifications:

  • Altitude: 1700 m above sea level
  • District: Syangja
  • Specialty: First homestay in Southern Asia
  • Duration: 4 hours (from Pokhara)
  • Vehicle supported: Bike, mountain bike, jeep, bus
  • Public vehicle available: local bus, jeep

Things To Carry:

  • Raincoat or umbrella
  • Extra pair of clothes and socks
  • Flip-flops
  • Snacks (if you crave anything that might not be available in village like in big cities)
  • Medicines

Things To Wear:

  • Light and loose clothes
  • Sun hat
  • Sunscreen

Specialties:

  • Comfortable, well facilitated rooms
  • House of cultural and historical importance
  • Delicious food, local rooster, local alcohol, cultural cuisine
  • A closeness and warmth of family
  • Cultural dance performance by committee
  • Panche-bajaa welcome by committee
  • Can wear Gurung cultural dress

Route & Vehicle Details From Pokhara:

  • Pokhara – Naudada – Karkineta – Sirubari (jeep or bus)
  • Pokhara – Badkhola – Daraun – Sirubari (jeep or bus)
  • Pokhara – Helu – Arjunchaupari – Sirubari (jeep or bus)
  • Pokhara – Naudada – Bejang – Sirubari (jeep or bus)
  • Pokhara – Helu – Rapakot – Sirubari (jeep or bus)

Pros of making trip to Sirubari!

  1. You can finish this trip over a weekend! All you need is one day from Pokhara and the trip is over.
  2. Despite all the rainfall in the morning, off-road route, and no Wi-Fi, I enjoyed this homestay experience as it was well managed.
  3. It is a perfect destination for refreshing stay either solo, with friends, families, or for couples.
  4. You get nice hospitality in the homestay. Plus, it is super cheap. As there are people of the committee who decides where one shall be placed, the prices do not fluctuate from one house to another and overall, the stay comes under NPR 3000 per person.
  5. This I would call an underrated village. Though it is the oldest village that started as homestay in Nepal, the place is still unnoticed and does not receive more than 150 people per day.
  6. Well, who would not like to flaunt “I have been to the first homestay village in the Southern Asia”? Of course everyone would love that. So, go there!
  7. There is no chance you get to buy a coke or snicker after you reach the place as it is a village away from modern stores and stuff. So, carry whatever you might crave during the stay. Well, carry your wrappers back with you!
  8. Local kodoko raksi, Nepali tato khana, cool breeze, perfect weather, and satisfactory hike, and what else? You will get cultural experience as a bonus!

Contact Info:

Make sure you book your homestay at Sirubari one week ahead so that you get proper services. During peak months like October and November, it might be difficult to get accommodation so make pre-bookings.
Capt. Purna Bdr. Gurung (Treasurer): +977 – 9846122946
Sunil Gurung (Secretary): +977 – 9846176991

Hope this article helped you in some ways. Even if this one is your first time in Nepal or in village of Nepal, you need not panic, it is not as awkward as you think! If the blog was worth reading, do share and leave your feedback.

Aleena Rayamajhi
4/3/2021

Myanglung – The Giant Cat Sculpture Story | Tehrathum, Nepal

The title of my blog refers to the picture attached here that shows a sculpture of a cat in the middle of the street that stands not less than 10 feet. In one of my recent solo trips to Tehrathum – hilly district of Eastern Nepal, I had made a one-day stay at Myanglung. Myanglung is the headquarter of Tehrathum that lies at 1,500 meters above sea level.

Stepping out of the bus after a 2.5 hours long trip from Sidhuwa Bazaar, Dhankuta at Myanglung, I was fascinated by the cat sculpture in the middle of the main highway. The first thing that came to my mind was: “So, cats do rule some part of the world!” I didn’t stop myself from not taking its picture and was eager to find out the story behind the giant cat sculpture that stared right in my eyes.

I asked several people that day, during my work, about the story behind the giant cat. Well, none could tell me anything besides their assumptions and theories. Later, after my day’s work was accomplished, I was able to meet an elderly who was recognized as one of the popular leaders of Myanglung. I didn’t wait any moment and asked him about the giant stone cat in the middle of the highway. He smiled and began the story. It goes like this:

It is a mythical story that is about a century old. Three porters were coming to Myanglung from Terai, carrying heavy loads in their back. The roads were not proper and vehicles did not run in those times. The sun was about to set when they reached near Myanglung. So, those three porters decided to stay a night in the same place.

One of the tired porters collected few white stones to make a chimney for a fire. After he had arranged those stones, he added little firewood, then put a utensil over it, and lighted the fire. Surprisingly, one of the stones showed a sudden movement. The porter was too tired so the imbalance of the stone made him angry. Therefore, he lifted his Khukuri (Nepali knife, bigger than the kitchen knife), and hit the stone with it to let go of his frustration. Another minute, the stone that was moving previously, started bleeding. It was a horrific scene. All three porters were scared to death, so, they left the place immediately.

The next day, villagers that found out what had happened to the porters, went to the same place. They discovered redness over the stone which was cut with Khukuri. Since that day, there were meowing sound during the night time, and children began to disappear. The villagers were frightened but did not know how to heal the situation. One morning, a person from the village collected everyone and told about the dream he saw last night. He explained how a Hindu goddess was crying in his dream and wanted to be worshipped. After hearing about the person’s dream, the villagers took it as a sign from the deity and decided to worship the stone that had bled previously. They carried it and put it over a huge stone and started worshipping it every day. Finally, the meowing sounds in the night disappeared and no other terrific incidents took place afterward.

The place was later named Myanglung or Myaaulung. Myanglung comes from Limbu Language and is made up of two words: myaau and lung which mean cat and stone respectively. It explains the popular incident of the bleeding stone that cried like a cat that took place a century ago. One can still find the remains of the stone which is covered with roots today in Myanglung. Though the story sounds unusual and impossible, one cannot deny the fact that the majority of the locals in the area believe it.

If you ever come to Eastern Nepal, do not miss this place. After all, history and mythical stories make us excited and we should respect them. Believing one is totally up to you!

Aleena Rayamajhi
2/13/2021

Sandakphu Trip Details through Nepal’s Route!

Altitude: 3636m
Location: Ilam Border at West Bengal
Vehicle: Bike and jeep
Road condition: poor, off-road
Trip Duration: 1N 2D (as per feasibility)

Sandakphu is a popular Eastern destination in Nepal. It is commonly known as Sandakpur in Nepal and the endpoint of Sandakpur is known as Sandakphu. Well, you can find plenty of blogs on the Internet that give you details about the trip via the Indian route or Indian side. In this blog, I’m making sure that the people who are willing to experience the place via the Nepal side (Ilam) can reach Sandakphu with ease with the help of this blog. Trust me; it is not that easy if you go unplanned. I went to Sandakphu this week, without plans, and it was tough. So, I’m here to guide you so that you do not have to go through any troubles.

If you are anywhere away from East, that is, away from Morang, Sunsari, Jhapa, or Ilam districts, you need to first reach here. Our trip began from Dharan (Sunsari). One has to reach Ilam Bazar to begin the trip. We took the first public bus from Dharan at 5:00 am and reached Ilam Bazar at 11:00 am for the price of NPR 650. You can find buses or jeep to Ilam Bazaar. Then, at Biplate, Ilam, we had our Travel Agency waiting for us.

Yes, we took a package from Ilam Bazaar to Sandakphu and back which was for 1 night and 2 days. It cost us NPR 3500 per person. Under this package, we were provided two times meal and tea on the first day and the second, breakfast and lunch. I think the package price was worth it as the distance from Biplate to Sandakphu (48 km) was difficult and troublesome. Fortunately, our jeep driver was experienced and made our trip safe.

It takes 4 to 5 hours to reach Kalapokhari. It was our last destination of the day. It is named after the Pond. The good thing is it didn’t snow. As we made a trip in January, snow was predicted. Surprisingly, despite the temperature drop of -6 degrees Celsius, it did not snow.

On the next day, we woke up at 4:30 am and took off to Sandapkhu at 5:00 am. After a jeep ride of an hour or two, we reached Sandakphu. There’s a little hill on Sandakphu which one must climb to witness heaven. The hilltop was full of a cool breeze. It felt heavenly. As it was a sunny morning, we did not feel much cold. After half an hour, we returned.

Food:

You will find good food at Sandakphu, Kalapokhari, and Ilam Bazar for a reasonable price. The specialty of the place is Tongba (local booze) which comes with aluminum straw in a wooden bucket for the price of NPR 200.

Accommodation:

If you go on busy times like October to January, you might have to make an early booking for lodging. The rooms are not as clean and comfy as in cities, but they are good enough to provide you warm sleep. The toilets again are not that clean and you might have to compromise with a squat toilet.

Things to Carry:

  • Torchlight
  • Ginger (to avoid altitude sickness)
  • Medicines (headache, vomit, etc.)
  • Extra jacket, woolen cap, gloves, socks (nights are super cold)
  • Polythene bag (in case you want to vomit while in a jeep)
  • Toilet roll

Budget Allocation from Dharan to Sandakphu and back:

  • Public vehicle and reserve jeep (if 8 people): NPR 2500 per head
  • Food: NPR 350 to NPR 500 per meal
  • Tongba: NPR 200 per bucket
  • Breakfast: NPR 250
  • Hot water: free

Overall, for the price of NPR 7000, I was able to have an amazing trip to Sandakphu from Dharan. My expenses included two nights’ stay at Dharan and one night stay at Kalapokhari along with meals and travel prices.

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve – Perfect Weekend Destination | Gem of Eastern Nepal

About Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve is a gem of Eastern Terai. Though the place does not receive as much recognition as other protected areas in Nepal, it is worth your visit and time. I went on a one-day trip to Koshi Tappu this week and was fascinated by the activities that were available even for a day trip. The major attractions of my Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve trip include jungle safari on a jeep, canoe ride, and campfire.

Occupying an area of 175 square kilometers, Koshi Tappu lies on the bank of the great Koshi River and covers wetlands in Sunsari, Saptari, and Udayapur. The area is popular for wild water buffalo (Arna) and birds. It is a birdwatcher’s paradise.

If you are planning to go on a one-day trip to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, you need to know few things about the area like you have to pay NPR 100 (for local visitors) to enter inside Koshi Tappu, you are now allowed to spend a night inside it, and you need to maintain constant silence. The area is considered risky as wild elephants have killed many locals and have destroyed several houses already. So, it is better to take a guided jungle safari instead of a self-one.

Attractions of Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve:

  • Jeep Jungle Safari

If you have your vehicle then you can explore the protected area on your own. But if you do not have one, you can get the jungle tour from experts of the resorts nearby. You can book a jeep and have a mind-blowing tour within an hour. I was in a team of 16, and we were provided a jeep safari of an hour that was amazing! It is a nice way to explore the place if you are short of time. Though for thorough birdwatching, you will need a little extra time.

  • Canoe Ride

If you are around Koshi, you can enjoy canoe rides from local canoe owners who use the canoe for transportation and fishing. Honestly, I had done canoe rides before in Koshi multiple times too. For NPR 100 the canoe owner will take you across the Koshi river and take you back. Canoe rides are amazing as you can enjoy the fresh and cool breeze and if you are lucky enough the canoe owner might let you row the boat on your request too.

  • Campfire and music

If you are planning to stay a night at any of the resorts near the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, a campfire is the best option because the place is usually cool in the evening. You cannot make the volume too high as it is near a protected area, but playing low music, and sitting around the burning firewood with a glass of drink in your hand surely sounds fun.

  • Good food and comfortable stay

The resorts or hotels around Tappu have the reasonable price of lodging. The food is extremely tasty and you can find a lot of varieties of fish on the menu. For a reasonable price, your stay will be comfortable with amazing meals and snacks.

My Weekend at Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve

As I have already mentioned, I was on a team of 16. Our journey began from Biratnagar and our destination was Aqua Birds Eco Resort (Ramsar Site, close to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve). We paid NPR 1500 per head for entire day food (breakfast, one-time meal, and snacks), jungle safari on a jeep, canoe ride, and campfire. We had carried our desserts and liquors as the place serves expensive liquors and sweets items are not available there.

If you are planning to go on a trip to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve, my suggestion is you book hotel rooms beforehand, and carry warm clothes for evenings. Don’t forget sunscreen and sunglasses as the air is usually full of silt particles and the days are sunny.

Aleena Rayamajhi
1/10/2021